tumblrbot asked: ROBOTS OR DINOSAURS?
There are no more committed people on the planet than surfers. We fall down a lot. We turn around, paddle back out, and do it over and over again. Unlike anything else in life, the stoke of surfing is so high that the failures quickly fade from memory.
the wave, it can be calm and soothing, and it can also be scary and deadly. the water is your friend, but the barrel is out to get you, you race as fast as you can to get out, but wait, your not always faster than it. don’t get ahead of yourself because it just might end up nipping you in the ass